Normandy Tour 2009

Operation Eagles Return, Saint Mere Eglise

1st-7th June 2009

After a year of planning, the FAAA and its Army Nurses deployed on "Exercise Eagles Return" a 7 day trip to Normandy. The group had not been back as a group since 2004 and all were looking forward to taking part.

Like most groups, since its last visit to Normandy it has changed somewhat, but those deploying were ensuring the group was the best it had ever been. The group had set itself aims, it was of course a Holiday for all, but tasks were there to be completed and completed they were.  Those tasks we set ourselves gave us good reason to be there, we aimed to give something back to those who fought and gave us this opportunity to freely travel to and around Normandy, we were there to travel in old military vehicles, and have fun and have an enjoyable week with friends.  To comemorate and, of course, to celebrate the succes of the campaign. This is not to say that while we were there we did not involve ourselves in many activities that brought us into contact with these fine men and women and whenever we did meet them or parade for them, they were given the ultimate respect and then some.

The photo report here will see the group taking part in a range of activities and tasks, some simply touring the battlefields, others re-enacting and carrying out living history, either for private group purposes, or for the public.  The report will also cover the ceremonial tasks we were invited to do for villages. The social aspect of the trip was without doubt the highlight of the week.  One could not get away from the fact all got on well together and firm friendships were made, a result one might say due to the fact all of us were under one roof and that roof was an old Garage.

The following pages will take a day at a time, the photos will pretty much tell the story.

The Journey to France

The group deployed on the 2300hrs Ferry from Portsmouth to Caen, the sea crossing and the fact the first tour day on the other side would see us following the route to the American beaches, it was fitting we went over initially as the Engineer Special Brigade.

 After meeting up at the RV, repairing a flat tyre on Karls jeep and marking up all unit transport,

all vehicles and crews prepared to move to the ferry port of Portsmouth

Gino, from Malta's War Museum

Capt George Francis, 91st Evac hospital, FAAA Army Nurses

DAY 1 - 1st June - TOUR - OMAHA BEACH AREA

LOCATIONS

 
OMAHA BEACH (ESB Wreath Presentation)
MAISEY BATTERY
1st INFANTRY MUSEUM
AMERICAN CEMETERY
 

IMPRESSION

 
5th ENGINEER SPECIAL BRIGADE / 91st EVAC HOSP

We hit the Beach at 0630hrs local time.  Well, actually we landed in Caen and disembarked from the ferry with no hold ups or checks.  In fact, the entire crossing was without problems, apart from some bright spark in Portsmouth suggesting that all the weapons had to come off the vehicles and handed over to security.  When we told them how much a .50 cal Browning weighed and how many weapons we actually had, they quickly changed their minds.

 
On arrival in France, our tour started.  Off the ferry though customs and onto the main highway towards our target area, Omaha.

Having rested up and filled ourselves with Coffee and food we moved out heading for the American sectors and the now relocated 1st Infantry Division museum.

We arrived in good order and parked up in convoy on the grassed area behind the museum, the local French group seemed pleased to see us, as at this time, there were few American vehicles and crews in the area.

We spent just over an hour there, the ESB impression we were doing fitted in quite well in the museum and we felt the museum owner wanted us to stay around a little longer, but we had to head out towards the Beach where we had planned to pay our respects and lay a wreath to the ESB and NBB who fell on Omaha on the 6th of June.

We arrived in good time, however the access route we had recce'd a couple of weeks before was blocked so we had to park up some distance from the bluffs near to the Cemetery and march down.  This we did, leaving a small guard at the vehicles, we headed off to the Memorial overlooking the beach. We gave our serving US Navy member the honour of laying this wreath. Dressed in dress whites, Petty Officer 1st Class Mike Slesser representing the US Navy Beach Battalions and the FAAA laid the wreath in the presence of the remainder of the group, visitors to the memorial and serving American Soldiers preparing for the big day.  It was a very emotional occasion indeed, made more so when all the uniformed serving Regular GI's came to attention and saluted as the groups Honour guard presented arms and the 5th ESB Guidon was lowered.

 
We paid our respects and stayed in the area for another half hour or so, just standing on the bluffs looking down over that very wide beach.  "Just how did they do it?",  was asked by many of us.  No one really had an answer, but we know they did and at a terrible cost!

We moved back to the vehicles and a small party was sent to ask the visitor's centre for permission to enter the Cemetery in Uniform, this was dually granted and those who wished to visit smartened themselves up and under the Lt entered to pay there respects.

From here we moved onto the Maisey battery, for many even those who had come to Normandy before this was all new for them, so some time was allocated to this visit.

Having finally arrived and gained entry to our barracks and command post, troops unloaded and squared away gear, rations were sourced at the locale store and the kitchen area set up.

It was not long before troops headed into town. Having been in kit for two days now it was nice to get into some civvies and chill out in town and have a few beers and a bite to eat. All headed to the C47 Cafe which stayed open late for us.

On the evening of the 1st, Ste Mere was still very quite, which suited us. Most wanted to get their heads down and prepare for the next days tour, the beaches of Utah and the 4th Infantry Division areas.  Most were in bed by 2300hrs.

DAY 2 - 2nd June - TOUR - UTAH BEACH AREA 

LOCATIONS

 
UTAH BEACH (Including Museum and LeClerc Memorial
CRISBECQ BATTERY
AZEVILLE BATTERY
 

IMPRESSION

 
4th INFANTRY DIVISION / 91st EVAC HOSP

Our second day in Normandy and the first full tour day would see us covering the 4th Infantry Division's area, in particular the areas where the 22nd Infantry Regiment fought.  This would include the beach landing areas and along the coast to the two gun Batteries at Azeville and Crisbecq.

The days, for some, started bright and early.  6 unit vehicles had to be remarked up as 4th Division Headquarters and Headquarters company.  One of the jeeps was to remain attached to HQ 91st EVAC HOSP, which would accompany us on the route and provide transport for the Headquarters of the FAAA's "Army Nurses".

After a hearty breakfast, we loaded kit and boarded jeeps and the Dodge Weapons Carrier and headed out towards the beach, passing the site of the first Airfield constructed in Normandy.

We took the slow, winding roads and tracks out to the beaches and headed towards the museum at Utah our first stop point.  Here we found a large parking areas designated for caravans, but with only a few caravans in place.  Only a few hundred yards from the museum, this was as good a place to park up for a base location.  While most of the troops headed off towards the beach and museum, a rear party prepared lunch for the rest.

Most were away for an hour or so before moving back to the CP for chow, which was gratefully received.  The weather was outstanding and the group spent a further hour chilling out eating and reading the many books purchased in the museum shop.  We were even visited by some veterans.

When everyone was ready, it was time to move out and on to the next location, but not before a short history lesson and a map recce of the route the 22nd Infantry took on the 6th and 7th of June.

Moving out was not that straightforward. All the vehicles started up apart from the Dodge, which decided now was the time to give up completely.  The hood was up again and the 4 vehicle mechanics we had all stuck their heads under it.  Like 4 hospital consultants, they chatted away for 5 minutes before all agreeing it was fuel or lack of it, well to the carb at least.  Before going any further, fuel had to be sourced to ensure there was some in the tank, with an unreliable fuel gauge who knows what was in the tank.  A jeep was dispatched to Ste Mere to get some, as the spare we had went in one of the jeeps first thing in the morning.

After a white knuckle ride for the 1st Lt at breakneck speeds on the winding roads, in what seemed no time at all, fuel replen was with us and the tank topped up.  Still no start!  The carb was stripped down to find the float level was wrong.  It was fixed and the Dodge started on the Cranking Handle as the battery was now low and she was left to run for the rest of the tour day.

Finally, after an hour and a half, we moved out along the coast road via the very famous chapel seen in the picture below, passing bunkers knocked out by the 22nd Infantry with tank support.

As we moved up the coast, we moved further up on to the beach.  Moving along sandy tracks, we came across a main battery location and stopped for a look and a break.

The first Main gun battery of Crisbecq was not far from here, but further inland.  It would be here that we would lay a wreath in memory of those many Ivy Division Infantrymen who lost their lives trying to take this strongpoint.  In a short, but moving ceremony this is what we did shortly after arrival.

The group climbed to the top of the observation bunker in the car park from where the beaches could be clearly be seen. How easy it would have been for these guns to have caused the same carnage as on Omaha had history been a little bit different for the men of the 4th Infantry Division.

From here we moved the few miles further inland to the amazing Azeville Battery.  The picture below explains why:

After an hour or so here to allow those who wished to tour the site to do so, it was back on the vehicles to head back to Ste Mare and our billet.  Planned for the evening was a group BBQ Cookout which was welcome after a long day in the sun. For a couple, George and Tim it was time to again look at the Dodge.  All credit to these two, several hours were spent going over every component under the hood.  Still with starting problems, the electrics were next looked at and after going over everything it was discovered the coil had been breaking down in heat due to a leak of fluid.  The points and condenser was charged also as a matter of further maintenance after which she fired up on first turn over and ran smoothly thereafter for the remainder of the tour.  Another jeep also had a few problems but a new Distributor cap sorted that out.

A very special thanks to George Francis and Tim Bucklow for spending their evening in the motor pool. The evening finished with more beer and getting kit ready for the next days tour, the "Drop Zones".

 
DAY 3 - 3rd June - TOUR -THE AMERICAN AIRBORNE AREAS
 

LOCATION
 

DZ's VILLAGES AND TOWNS OF THE 82nd
 

IMPRESSION

325th GLIDER INFANTRY REGT
91st EVACUATION HOSPITAL

Another fine day of weather awaited us as we got our kit together and stowed equipment into vehicles.

Today would se us back in our normal airborne role, but not as Parachutist, but as Glider troops of the 325th Glider Infantry 82nd Airborne Division. The tour day for our D + 3 would take us out to the west of Ste Mere Eglise and to the Drop Zones and Landing Zones of the 82nd Airborne. Later in the day we would then move out to the areas North East and South of the town and into the areas of the 101st Airborne.  Today, our tour guide would be Matt, our group's Corpsman and 325th GIR specialist.

Once again, the ladies of Army Nurses would be very much involved and accompanied us in the WC51 and 91st Headquarters Jeep.

After some breakfast we headed down to the display fields behind the Airborne Museum in Ste Mere to recce the area we would be displaying on on Friday and Saturday.

We then headed out towards Chef du Pont and the bridge famed for the actions by the 507th and 508th Parachute Infantry Regiments.  We parked up on the side of the road and beyond the Drop Zone could be clearly seen out towards Le Fiere.  We dismounted and walked the short distance across the road to the two memorials set out in the memorial garden outside the Creamery, which was just that at the time of the actions that took place here 65 years before.

We spent some time here just taking it all in before remounting our vehicles and heading further out from base to Picauville, passing Pont l'Abbe and Hill 30 on the way.

On arrival at Picauville, we came across a camp set up, some nice vehicles parked up there.  The new part of the memorial was due to be unveiled the next day, but we got a bit of a preview and as the pictures below illustrate it is a large memorial for this little Norman village.

We spent half hour or so here, the sun was beating down and all were glad to get back on the vehicles and get moving, even if only to get a bit of a breeze.  From here, we headed out to Bernaville and the Château used as General Falley's headquarters.  This is on private land, but was thought to be semi derelict and certainly all the times I have been to Normandy it's never been lived in and when this group came over for the 507th memorial unveiling several years ago, it was used as the location for the Veterans civic reception, well the grounds were, the very impressive building was still then uninhabited.  It was quite a shock when driving up to it that it had seemed that lots of work had been done to it, even in the few weeks since the advance party had visited.  What was more of a shock on leaving was bumping into the new owner, a Brit it would seems by the few short words that were spoken to us, which may or may not have included "Bugger Off"!

Well, at least we got to see the Headquarters for a brief moment and then it was on to where the General met his end at the hands, or rather guns of the small group of Paratroopers from the 508th PIR.  Here we also met up with Paul Woodage from Battlebus tours, he was waiting around for a VIP visit to the area so we moved on rapidly so as not to get in the way.

From this quiet lane, which 65 years before saw so much violence, we headed out towards the bridge at la Fiere, a place well known by all.  Here we would have lunch, but on the way we had some cross country green laning to fit in and a visit to the new memorial to mark where Charles N Deglopper of the 325th Glider Infantry Regiment won his Medal of Honor.

Here we saw one of the first of many information boards going up in the area, very impressive they are too.

On arrival at la Fiere, we set up a base location on the Western bank looking up the hill to the Iron Mike memorial on the top of the hill.  Tables were set up and the rations distributed, there being enough to feed an army, well our little army anyhow. We were pretty much on our own, however across the road work continued on getting the Drop Zone ready for the 5th.  While chowing down we were visited by a US Special Forces Major who happened to be passing in his car, he pulled over to chat with us and to see what we were all about.  He thanked us for representing an American wartime outfit and wished us luck for the rest of the trip before moving on.  Nice little moments like that make it all worthwhile.

After lunch, we walked the short distance across the bridge and up the hill to *Iron Mike*.  The afternoon brought many current serving American Soldiers out to the areas of Historical Importance, here were many Red Berets of the various "Airborne" Units and all were keen to have their pictures taken with a bunch of Brits dressed in old gear.  Some paid particular attention to our Nurses!

A rather nice time was had by all, but before long we were mounting up and moving out again.

Next stop was the fantastic 507th Memorial at Amfreville, it was the unveiling of this memorial a good few years ago that this Association was invited to attend so it has a special significance for us.

The car park was empty, in fact all locations we went to there were few other people there, such was the luxury of being in Normandy well before the main event. We spent some time here as there is a lot to take in and it is a nice quiet spot.

Before leaving, several of the younger group members kitted up and went out on patrol to recreate just a small part of what may have happened in this area 65 years ago:

From Timmes Orchard, we moved back through Ste Mere and over into some of the 101st Areas stopping first at the memorial to Easy Company Headquarters C47 crash site and then on to Winter's Ambush site, before finally reaching Brecourt Manor and the very fine new memorial to that action.

Not far from here, but on very few peoples list of sites to visit, was the site of the 91st first main EVAC Hospital.  Here we stopped for a short moment to reflect on what happened here not far from the village church. The rear party who stayed on for a few more days after we left for England followed up what we had found out.

It was only a short distance from here back to our base location at Sainte Mere.  We had had a full day in the sun and all were looking forward to getting a shower and chilling out at base with a beer.

DAY 4 - 4th June - HONOR GUARD AT MEMORIAL AND DISPLAY, MAGNEVILLE 
 

LOCATION
 

MAGNEVILLE VILLAGE AND 101st / C47 CRASH SITE MEMORIAL
 

IMPRESSION

ITEM CO, 506th PIR, 101st HONOR GUARD

506th 101st AIRBORNE
91st EVACUATION HOSPITAL

Day 4 saw us at Magneville and undertaking one of the main tasks we had been requested to do while in Normandy.  This was the second time this task had been undertaken by the group, the first was 5 years ago and the 60th Anniversary, then we had been asked by Joe Beyrle's son to undertake an Honour Guard and represent his father on the 4th June in Magneville.

The name Magneville does not immediately spring to mind when one thinks of the memorials and the 101st Airborne, because it is not that near to Ste Mere Eglise, Dead Man's Corner, and Carentan or any of the other battle sites made famous in books or film, but to some, especially the village, it is an important place and is remembered for the Item Company 506th C47 Crash and the loss of so many Paratroopers and Aircrew.

The Third Battalion 506th had the unfortunate ability to hit their Drop zone right on the mark.  As a result of this, two of the three planes in the Battalion that were shot down were from I Company. The first plane to go down was chalk 15, carrying what is believed to be a mixture of men from 1st Platoon and HQ section.  The jumpmaster was 1Lt. Gerald V. Howard and the pilot was 1Lt. Ray Pullen.  #15 had been one of three planes randomly selected to carry additional ammunition in Wing Bundles, in their cases TNT.  A German Tracer Round hit one of the Bundles and the plane exploded in mid air.  All the aircrew and stick lost their lives, many were friends of Joe.

 
The 4th June Memorial service is arguably one of the most moving memorial services and is always well attended by the village and surrounding area.

The group undertook the task in 2004 and returned again to the Village to do the same on the 4th June 2009, but this time we were to stay for the day and not only carry out the ceremonial task requested but also organise a display of Vehicles and Airborne kit with a special display of medical equipment by the FAAA's Army Nurses.

This Anniversary was attended by Brigadier General Johnson, US Air Force, and although no WW2 American Airborne Veteran was present, representing the Veterans of WW2 was Isaac Phillips, who came ashore on Utah with D Company 22nd Infantry Regiment of the 4th Infantry Division.  This in itself was a fitting tribute as the Village of Magneville was finally liberated by the 4th Division.

 
The pictures below give an overview of this great day.

We thank the Village of Magneville for inviting us and making us so welcome before, during and after the ceremonies.  This again will be a day that will be remembered by us in the group for a very long time.

Vehicle Display

Army Nurses complete their display

Kate, Rach and Lesley get ready for some Lunch, French Style!  How many courses was it!

Lunch is served

FAAA's new Colors are prepared to be paraded for the first time.  Financed by the now deactivated
17th Airborne Association these colors will be used many times in the future in memory of those now
no longer with us.

Color party take up their positions

The Honor Guard move out to the memorial, in glorious sunshine, the Memorial day is under way

At the completion of the service, permission was sought from the ranking Officer General Johnson
to retire Colors

As the parade dispersed, Isaac Phillips, 4th Infantry Division Veteran reflects on his day in Magnaville

The Honor Guard return to the Town Hall, Mission complete, well almost.

A moment to remember, a Veteran thanks us

General Johnson and Isaac meet the Troops

The wine flows at the civic reception

Sgt Smart spends a few special moments with Isaac

As the day drew to an end the group were given the use of the village and some buildings to use to help recontruct some living history scenes.

While the older members concentrated their efforts in sourcing some excellent and ridiculously low priced local Cider, the younger lads kitted up and headed out into the field.

DAYS 5 & 6 - JUNE 5th & 6th - AIRBORNE FESTIVAL, SAINTE MERE EGLISE 
 

LOCATIONS
 

AIRBORNE MUSEUM, SAINTE MERE EGLISE

405th Bomb Squadron Memorial Dedication, L'Etang Bertrand
 

IMPRESSION

82nd AIRBORNE

101st AIRBORNE

4th INFANTRY DIVISION
91st EVACUATION HOSPITAL

9th Air Force Honor Guard (L'Etang Bertrand)

On the 5th and 6th June, by invitation from the Airborne Museum at Sainte Mere Eglise, the group deployed to the Airborne festival taking place within the grounds of the Museum.

We had recc'ed this area a few weeks before when we visit the town to undertake the Honour Guard for a film launch, but had not really expected to find the exact area given to us still free and available, as the event had already been running for a few days. Luckily it was, and not only that, we were allowed to dig in around the area where 65 years previously men of the 82nd and 101st had dug foxholes.  What came out of the ground when we dug is testimony to this.

For the two days, we were combining 3 units within our display area: the 91st Evac Hospital as may have been seen on its initial deployment at Utah, the 82nd Airborne Division and the 4th Infantry Division relieving the Paratroopers in Sainte Mere Eglise.

5th JUNE

The morning of the 5th was an early start for all troops as all kit had to be loaded up and moved to the museum? Although we were based in Ste Mere the short distance we needed to go on the 5th was going to take some time, although with the passes we had we did manage to get through the centre of town without too much problems.

Once on location, all troops busied themselves setting up.  The small hospital and field kitchen went up quite quickly and fox holes were dug. Within a couple of hours we were ready for the public and they came in their hundreds.  After the previous mobile days, it was quite nice to be static and displaying for a change

322nd Bomb Group /405th Bomb Squadron Memorial - 5th June

The show at the Airborne Museum was buzzing, all involved enjoyed the period of static display, but for an element of the group it was time soon to be off again on another task.

The Association had been requested to provide a Color Party and Military Police detachment at a new memorial unveiling in the village of L'Etang- Bertrand, not far from Magneville.

The Color Party and MP Detachment along with our Regular USAF Member from "Army Nurses" detached from the main group at the show and headed out to the village mid afternoon to undertake the task.

When we arrived people were gathering and quite a crowd were attending from the surrounding area and a sizable contingents from the USAF were there too along with relatives of the Aircrew of the stricken plane that was being remembered.

It was a blistering hot afternoon and the sun shone bright in the sky, not ideal when parading for well over an hour in Class A uniform, but to the credit of those taking part my troopers hacked it and our part was well received by both the local people and the regular military.

When parading the Colors in the presence of senior American Military Officers certain protocol has to be adhered to and permission to "Post" Colors at the start of proceedings has to be sought from the senior officer in attendance, and the colors have to be "retired" prior to the senior officer leaving.

This caused us a slight problem towards the end of the proceedings when the senior officer had to leave to prepare his Squadron for the next day's jump,  (these French memorial services can go on for some time).  Of course, he could not leave until colors had "retired", so our Officer tipped him the wink and moved forward to ask permission to retire colors.  All worked fine and with permission granted, the Color Party shouldered arms and marched off to the music of the Andews sisters.

Hard work, but an enjoyable experience, it was satisfying to give something back to the families of the aircrew and to the village of  L'Etang-Bertrand.

Like many in Normandy this year, one of the highlights was the the fireworks display along the beaches on the evening of the 5th June.  We mounted up on the vehicles and headed out towards Utah an hour before they were due to be set off.  Lucky we did, the convoy of all sorts of vehicles was amazing and it took quite some time to get there, but near to Utah the military vehicles were directed right up on to the beach front and from there we had a great view, fantastic.

6th JUNE

We had a little bit of rain at the start of the day, but that soon passed and we settled into a great day of re-enacting.

3 Sherman tanks went into the display ring and were more than welcoming to allow the First Triple A to climb aboard for a spin around the circuit.  This was a buzz for all and the highlight of the tour for some.

On this day we had the priviledge to meet with many fine veterans of WWII.  Two such men were John Lewis and Mel Pliner.

PFC John Lewis had served with the 417th Infantry Regiment of the 76th Infantry Division and had been a BAR Gunner throughout the war.  PFC Mike Wring, our BAR Gunner, was now his number one fan.  This was the first time John had held a BAR since the end of the war and he was very emotional about the experience.

 
He was over with his two sons and it was very moving for all the group to be told his time with us will have put 5 years on his life, only recently had he spoken about his war experiences.  We could have listened all day.

Mel Pliner is more well known, but just the same he was a gentleman and to us was a quiet man who told a great story when asked about his experiences.  Mel was a Glider Pilot in the 436th Troop Carrier Group and had flown 5 succesful combat glider flights in 3 campaigns.

Great to meet you, guys.

The 6th June show slowly drew to a close, but not before we were visited by some friends from the BBC who had travelled in their jeep from the British areas to Ste Mere.

It was a pleasure to spend a couple of hours with Bryan, Mark and Ben and since listening to their recorded broadcasts, their new group impression is working very well.

Ben and Bryan of the Outside Broadcast Team (CORA)

BBC record an interview with 2nd Lt Shelley Beckle ANC

BBC record an interview with Sgt Thonmas J Smart of the 505th PIR

BBC record an interview with Mike Slessor of the 8th Infantry Regiment, 4th Division

Lee and his wife Lesley (Army Nurses) discuss the fantastic few days we had spent in France

All too soon, it was time to strike camp and head back to barracks and prepare for the evening in Ste Mere and get ready for the return home.

The evening of the 6th June was our last night in France and we intended to celebrate not only the Anniversary of a successful Normandy campaign but our own 15th anniversary since activation in June 1994.

The evening was rather wet, marking the start of a change in the weather, but it did not dampen our spirit and all in the group had a fantastic time in the Airborne Museum Bar and later in Ste Mere Eglise.

A great way to finish the tour:

DAY 7 - 7th June

On our last day in Normandy, all woke up late after a full-on evening in the town.

Our ferry home was not until late in the evening so once on the move we still had a full days touring to get in and this we did, but this time it was into the British area, which we found fitting and the proper way to finish what was an excellent week in Normandy.

Moving out in half an hour!

Fuel stop in the rain

En route on the N13

Approaching Pegasus Bridge near Sword Beach in the British D-Day area

A short remembrance service at Merville Battery, where Gino laid a wreath on FAAA's behalf

Looking over the terrain of the engagement on top of one of the casemates

Arrival at Ranville Cemetery

A moment of pause at Pvt Jack Everett's grave, a casualty of the Ox and Bucks Light Infantry, who was killed in action next to Sgt R "Tich" Raynor, shortly after landing in No 5 glider, which was destined for Pegasus Bridge, but mislanded on the River Dives.  Young Jack, only 22, was from Aylesbury, in common with our own Sgt Smart, who is also about the same age and laid a wreath on FAAA's behalf.

Lest we Forget.

Our members from Malta and the USA, Gino and "Iron" Mike, enjoy a last meal in France